A morning without coffee is like a day without....

Coffee grounds

We learned long ago that, for us, coffee in the morning is a necessity! It gets the body going, the mind sharpens - I'm sure you get the picture. So, when we moved to Nicaragua we made sure that we had the means to make coffee even if the electricity goes out.  We had no idea how much we would appreciate such foresight!

There have been many mornings here in Pearl Lagoon when we have started the day without electricity. If we had to rely on a coffee pot that required electricity to brew a cup, then we would be in poor shape.  However, we have our trusty percolator, that as long as we have gas for cooking - or wood for that matter - we can have our coffee to get the morning going.

There is another challenge to getting our morning brew - at this point it is impossible to find ground coffee here in Pearl Lagoon. For some reason they prefer "instant" coffee. So, on our monthly trips to Bluefields we ensure that we pick up at least 3 packages of coffee. There isn't much choice in coffee brands in Bluefields so when we want some really "good" coffee we have to buy it when we are in Managua.

So.... if you are coming to Pearl Lagoon, and having a good cup of coffee is important to you, don't forget to bring some type of percolator and a bag or two of ground coffee!

Percolator

Buying Beef in Pearl Lagoon

Chopping up the beef

I'll start off by moaning - It was far easier to buy beef back home! All I had to do was walk along the refrigerated case and displayed before me were different, recognizable cuts of beef - steaks in all their varieties, brisket, short ribs, roasts - all neatly packaged and labelled. Oh, how I miss those days!

Since our move to Pearl Lagoon we have been eating only ground beef - the reason being that it comes is 1 lb frozen packages. That changed this week. We passed by a shop that was busily "chopping" up a recently slaughtered cow. This started a conversation about how we miss eating beef and wouldn't it be nice to have some.... Since we were going in the opposite direction of home we didn't buy any meat but the idea had been planted....

Later in the morning I found a fellow selling some beef - carrying it around town in a large plastic can on a wheel barrow. I took a look at it and it was still fresh and there was no smell so I inquired how much per pound - only 40 cords per pound ($1.65 CDN).  I took out two pounds of meat and hurried home to put it in the fridge.

So far, our experience with Nicaraguan beef hasn't been that successful -  it can be pretty tough.  So I looked up a marinade to try and "tenderize" it and put the cubed meat in to soak. Even with marinating over night we found the beef chewy - not one of our favorite meals that we've had here. I still have another pound of meat in the freezer and have decided that a "slow" cooking method might make it more tender - so I will likely put it in the slow-cooker and hope that the electricity doesn't go out! If that doesn't work I guess we'll be sticking with ground meat!

Chopping up the beef in Pearl Lagoon

Garlic Beef with rice and carrots

What do you do when there's no Maple Syrup?

We don't eat a lot of pancakes or French toast, but when we do we love to smother them with Maple Syrup. Unfortunately, you can get any real Maple Syrup or fresh honey here in Pearl Lagoon and so when we made some French toast the other day we had to find an alternative.

Since we do have some awesome brown sugar that comes in blocks I decided to look for a recipe that features it. I looked at a couple of recipes but decided to try the one posted at Group Recipes by Tuilelaith because it contains butter and vanilla which I thought would make it taste better. The recipe took no time at all to make and the taste was good. However, the next time I make it I think I will increase the amount of butter. Also, I don't think I cooked it long enough because we prefer a thicker syrup - but we were hungry and in a hurry!

I found the recipe at Group Recipes posted by Tuilelaith. You can find it and others here: Brown Sugar Syrup

Brown Sugar Syrup

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 1/2 cups brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 cup water

How to make it

---

• Put brown sugar and butter in a sauce pan.
• Melt together.
• Add vanilla and water.
• Heat on medium/high heat until it boils.
• Turn down a touch and boil for 5 minutes.

Our Favorite Bread in Pearl Lagoon

Miss Tina

Yum - hot, fresh bread, straight from the oven. Who can resist it? I know we can't.

Fresh bread is easy to find here in Pearl Lagoon. Many families here bake their own bread as part of their weekly routine. We could too since we have enjoyed making bread in the past. However, we have decided we would rather leave that task for the professionals!

 The Coconuts Delight Bakery - on Front Street - makes very good bread and at 30 cords a loaf it's a great price. We've enjoyed their bread and rolls on many occasions. But, in our opinion, you can't beat Miss Tina's hot, fresh bread for taste or price.

Miss Tina tells us that she has been making bread for over 20 years now. Every afternoon you will find her and her helper shaping 200 rolls from the mounds of bread dough that she had prepared earlier in the day. Would you prefer to have a loaf of bread? No problem. Just tell her before she has finished shaping the dough and she will prepare as many loaves as you require. Miss Tina doesn't start baking the bread until late in the afternoon and so by about 6:30 p.m. your fresh bread will be ready to pick up and take home. How much do these goodies cost? The rolls are only 5 cords each and you can get a whole loaf for only 20 cords.

Miss Tina and helper making "bread"

Loaves of bread baking in Miss Tina's oven - Pearl Lagoon, Nicaragua

FYI:  If you ask for a "bun" in Pearl Lagoon they will sell you a sweetened roll. The small rolls that Miss Tina and others sell are called "breads".

Fresh rolls ready for some butter!

So... by now I'm sure you are asking - Where is Miss Tina's home bakery? From the Basketball Court (La Concha) walk about 1/2 way to Casa Blanca (west). On the right side of the road you will come to a small shop with veggies for sale. 

Small store selling veggies - Pearl Lagoon, Nicaragua

Miss Tina's is behind the store, take your first right behind the store and follow the path to the back. If you aren't sure - just ask or follow your nose!

Take pathway behind the veggie store

You will find Miss Tina working hard baking bread every evening.

What is this? - Revealed

Are you ready to find out what this is?

When you open the door you find out that it is a Bread Oven

Bread Oven - Pearl Lagoon, Nicaragua

Coal is put into a container at the bottom part of the "box" and heats up the upper part. This locally made "oven" is used daily to make bread.

Delicious food delivered right to your door.

Miss Yaya with Banana Cake

There aren't very many job opportunities in Pearl Lagoon and many families have to be very enterprising when it comes to earning a living.

 Many families earn their living by the sea, others take advantage of the tourism opportunities there are in town and work at one of the hotels or restaurants but for others they decide to take a different route. They put their cooking skills to good use and make food to sell in order to earn their livelihood.

Miss Yaya and her daughter Jean are only one example. They can frequently be found selling delicious pieces of cake (banana is our favorite), rice pudding or in the summer season flavored shaved ice. Miss Yaya is often called upon to make cakes for special occasions.

Less frequently Miss Yaya and Jean will make an entree such as Chicken Fried Rice or Chop Suey. They usually "pre-sell" these meals buy making tickets and keeping track of how many meals are required. On the "cooking day" the meal is usually ready by 12 noon and you can pickup and pay for the meal at their home or it will be delivered to your door.

Their prices are very reasonable too - only 20 cords for a piece of cake and 10 cords for Rice Pudding. If you have decided to try one of their meals they usually cost only 60 cords - a nice economical meal.

Rice Pudding

Chop Suey by Miss Yaya and Jean

8 Must try eats in Pearl Lagoon

There are many new and delicious foods to try here on the Atlantic Coast. Coconuts are plentiful and therefore you will find coconut in many foods. The oil of coconuts is also delicious and is used in many recipes which gives the food a unique taste.

While you are in Pearl Lagoon be sure to try some of the following:

coconut curry fish with shrimp - Casa Ulrich

1.  Coconut tarts from the Coconuts Delight Bakery.

2.  Fresh picos are available almost everywhere and sometimes are even sold door to door. Picos are a mixture of sugar, cheese and spices wrapped in dough. Our favorites are found in the blue house on the last east/west street closest to The Point. They usually sell for only 5 cords.

3.  Patties - these too can be found at the Coconuts Delight Bakery but they are most commonly sold on the street. Often you will see someone carrying a basket calling out "patties". Patties make a tasty, inexpensive snack.

4.  Don't miss out on a fresh fish or shrimp dinner at Casa Ulrich. My favorite was a fish cooked in a coconut curry sauce with shrimp - truly delicious!

roast turtle meat (only when in season)

5.  Fresh, hot out of the oven coconut bread by Miss Tina. You can't miss her little home bakery if you are on the road between the Concha and the hotel Casa Blanca between 7 - 7:30 pm (Miss Tina is about 1/2 way on the street and you will find her house in behind the small store) - just follow the wonderful smell of baking bread. If you can't find it - just ask!

6.  In the mood for chicken? The Queen Lobster has a Pollo Frito that's not to be missed. Not only is the price budget friendly at 60 cords but you get a huge plate of fried chicken with plantain strips and fresh cabbage salad.

7.  Try fresh turtle meat (when in season). We were invited to a friends house and tried it made in two ways - in Rondon and the roasted turtle back. We preferred the meat roasted - nice and spicy and delicious with a side of cassava (called yucca on the Pacific coast).

8.  Finally, don't miss out on Miss Yaya's fresh baked cakes. She is well known in town and is frequently found selling her "cake of the day" - chocolate, vanilla, carrot or banana. Our favorite is the banana cake - simply irresistible!

Pancho took no time in devouring his pico! (ok - only part of one)

Visa Renewal in Costa Rica and a stay at the RIU Guanacaste

view from our room at the RIU Guanacaste

In order to renew our Nicaraguan Tourist Visa we only need to leave the country every 180 days (roughly 6 months). I think it's funny that before we moved to Nicaragua I thought how fun it would be to have a "forced" vacation every 6 months. In reality though, we have found that a trip to Costa Rica hasn't been as carefree and fun as we anticipated. It's not that we have encountered any dangers, and Costa Rica is certainly beautiful but somehow we've always come home feeling that we "missed" something and the expense of the trip wasn't worth it.

In April it was time to leave Nicaragua to renew our Visa but this time we decided to have a different experience in Costa Rica. Instead of having to "count our pennies" for every expense we decided to try something totally new for us - an all-inclusive resort. Yes, I hear you! Anyone who knows us has heard us say that we don't think an all-inclusive vacation is the way to go.... So.. we are eating our words! After checking out some of the resorts in the Guanacaste area of Costa Rica we finally decided on the RIU Guanacaste. Now, according to the folks on TripAdvisor this resort has a sketchy past in regard to it's treatment of the environment and although I respect their concerns we decided to stay there because the reviews from travelers were mostly favorable and they had the best price.

Chizu and Pat at the border

A few days after we booked our 3 nights at the resort we found out that our good friend Chizu was going to be visiting us and wanted to come to Costa Rica with us. We couldn't be happier to share this experience with her. We did have to change our plans to a certain degree. In order to meet her at the airport we needed to arrive in Managua the night before she was due to arrive. We opted to stay at the Best Western Las Mercedes across from the airport.  Although they aren't what you would call "budget accommodations" we enjoyed the opportunity to just relax and not worry about anything.

Chizu's flight was at noon and after grabbing a quick bite to eat we headed to Casa Silas in Granada for the night in preparation for an early departure the next morning. We again traveled to Costa Rica on TicaBus but this time we left from the Granada terminal. The trip across the border was uneventful and we arrived in Liberia about 11:30 a.m. We had scheduled a transfer to the RIU Guanacaste with Maleku Tours since there is no bus service that would take us past the resort.

front lobby heading towards the pool - RIU Guanacaste

We arrived early at the RIU Guanacaste - long before the official check-in time - although our room wasn't ready they gave us our bracelets and told us to go and enjoy lunch and return later to check into our rooms. We were starving by this time, so we literally raced down to the buffet lunch and dug right in! We were almost overwhelmed by the selection - remember we have been in Nicaragua for a year - there was so much to choose from. Check-in was a breeze and we were happy to find that we had adjoining rooms. The rooms were nice but not extra special. We had a view of the ocean from our little balcony but didn't spend any time out there. The grounds are well kept and we enjoyed walking around them. We saw quite a few iguanas sunning themselves on the pathways.

buffet decoration - RIU Guanacaste

We found that the food was good whether you ate at the buffet or at one of the specialty restaurants. The only restaurant that we didn't have a good experience with was La Toscana - the Italian one. While the food was good, we found the service was terrible. The table that we were seated at was totally blocked from the view of the waitstaff. Others that came in after us were served before us and we had to ask for everything - bread basket, wine glasses refilled, dishes cleared etc. The night that we were at this restaurant we were asked to fill out a survey - and you can bet we did!

On our last night at the resort we enjoyed the Grill and Steakhouse - you have to make a reservation to eat here. The food was excellent and the portions were huge. We also loved the location because it is the closest restaurant to the beach and so there was a beautiful sunset while we enjoyed dinner.

pathway leading to the pool - RIU Guanacaste

So, besides eating what else did we do at the RIU? Well, the pool was a huge draw - and not just because there was a swim-up bar! Although the resort has a nice beach area we found that there was a big undertow and Pat (who can't really swim) didn't feel safe - so we spent most of our time in the pool.

The animation team put on Water Aerobics everyday which Chizu and Pat eagerly joined. There was also a nature walk that took us along the beach and the guide pointed out different plants and animals. The highlight of the walk was seeing a large troupe of Howler monkeys with a number of babies - they were a lot of fun to watch. I would recommend joining this free tour if you ever stay at the RIU Guanacaste. There was also nightly entertainment - a Michael Jackson show, karaoke and another show that I can't remember the name of. The shows were both ok - fun to watch but they won't win any awards with them.

So... all in all, I must say that we thoroughly enjoyed our 3 night vacation at the resort. In fact, we were talking about meeting Chizu there again next year! We found that we definitely got our moneys worth going the all-inclusive route and we came away relaxed and happy with the overall experience.

Pat, Debbie and Chizu enjoying a cold one in the pool - RIU Guanacaste

pool aerobics - RIU Guanacaste

view from the Steak House - RIU Guanacaste

fabulous steak dinner - RIU Guanacaste

From the Grocery Bag

For the last little while we have missed the veggie truck and been purchasing our veggies from a local tienda. While this has been convenient, due to the fact that they are close to the house, we have found that the veggies haven't been of the best quality.

So, you can imagine how happy I was when today I heard the familiar voice calling out, "cebolla, pi
ña, tomatoes.....". I dropped what I was doing, gabbed my money and ran down to the basketball court where the truck was - I wasn't going to miss out this time!

Boy - am I glad I did. Did you know that it is the beginning of pitaya season? I didn't. We were able to get two beauties! Aslo, the carrots and onions looked way better than the ones I have recently been buying. So, for only $240 cordobas or just over $10 CDN this is what we bought:

• 2 lbs of onions
• 2 pitaya
• 2 piña
• 1 lbs of tomatoes
• 2 chayote
• 3 green peppers
• 2 lbs of carrots

Buying meat in Pearl Lagoon - Part 2

Ron

Do you like to eat pork? We do - it was always on the table at least once a week when we lived in Halifax. But to be honest with you, we haven't bought it since we left Canada. I guess I've been worried about how fresh it is and whether or not it was safe to eat. You can imagine how thrilled I was to discover that right down the street from us we can buy freshly butchered pork every Thursday. I'm shocked to think that we have been living here for 4 months and we are only just finding this out!

So Ron, the owner of a small pulperia, brings a pig in from the farm every week and butchers it early on Thursday morning. By the time I showed up at the shop (7:30 a.m.) all the messy part of butchering was done with and Ron was busy cutting up different cuts of meat. I was able to get 2 lbs of the freshest pork I've ever had. I opted for some of the loin (or steak as they call it) which they sell for only 40 cordobas  ($1.70 CDN) a pound. All of the rest of the meat is sold for 35 cordobas ($1.49 CDN) a pound.

If you get there early enough you can have your choice of cut - roast, ribs, loin etc. Once Ron is finished butchering the meat he makes Chicharrón from the skin - a favorite Nicaraguan treat. The skin is chopped and deep fried and then sprinkled with salt. It is sold for 80 cordobas ($3.40 CDN) a pound.

Where can you find Ron's shop? From the basketball court 1 block north (across from the Seventh Day Adventist Church). Be sure to get there early because they sell out fast!

Ron butchering the fresh pork

Fresh pork - what cut do you want?

Weighing the fresh pork

Ron's shop where you can buy pork on Thursday's

Buying meat in Pearl Lagoon

Preparing to weigh the meat

Our habits haven't changed since we have moved to Pearl Lagoon, Nicaragua - we like to have some meat with our meals. There is no butcher, meat market or supermarket where you can buy fresh, refrigerated meat - but that doesn't mean that fresh meat isn't available.

Quite frequently one of the residents with butcher a cow. When this happens the news spreads fairly quickly. Sometimes they hire our local "announcer" to go through the town letting people know that "a fresh, young cow was slaughtered today and you can get some meat at so-and-so's house". On other occasions the meat is put into a wheelbarrow and wheeled around the various barrios for people to buy - just like what you see in the picture. The vendors of the meat bring along a hand-held scale and measure out the requested amount of meat. The turtle meat pictured was sold for 20 cordobas or less than $1 per lb. The meat is usually sold out quite quickly - before the heat of the day has a chance to spoil it.

Fresh Turtle meat for sale

Frozen ground meat (ground beef) is trucked into town about once a week. There are quite a few little shops that sell it - usually for 35 cordobas (less than $1.50 CDN) per package of 1 lb. The shops can also buy frozen Tip Top chicken in the same way. A package of chicken breast sells for 32 cordobas (approx. $1.35 CDN). A word of caution: most of these little shops do not have a generator. Therefore, when there is a long power outage some of the meat may spoil. We have been unfortunate as to buy spoiled ground meat - happily, the shop owner did replace the rotten meat.

Frozen ground beef (ground meat as they call it here)

The versatile flour tortilla

Flour tortilla

Striving to keep to a budget can be challenging no matter where you live. However, we have found that one way you can usually save money is by preparing your food at home. Last year, when we were living in León, there was a lady close by our house who made tortillas at a price you can't beat even if you made them yourself - they were only 1 cordoba each. Now that we are living in Pearl Lagoon we have found very few ladies who make tortillas for a living. One time there was a little girl who came by the house selling tortillas for 5 cordobas each - a crazy price compared to León - certainly not a bargain!  Since we love eating tortillas we have started to make our own. We came across a very basic, easy to make flour tortilla that we have used in a variety of ways - for tacos, enchiladas, tortilla with refried beans, cheese, onion and tomato, and for flat-bread style pizza. The dough is very forgiving when you roll it out and although the tortillas usually aren't very circular they always taste great.

Here is the recipe we use:

3 cups flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
4-6 tbsp oil  (we use coconut oil)
1 1/4 cups warm water

Mix together the dry ingredients. Add the oil and water to the dry ingredients and mix well. Roll out on a floured surface and make a log shape. Cut off about 1 inch of dough and form into a circle. Roll out on floured surface. Cook in a non-stick pan over medium heat about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes per side. Remove and keep warm. Yield is approx. 18 tortillas.

Roll out the tortillas on floured surface

Cook in non-stick fry pan about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes each side

Use in your favorite recipe:

Tortillas, refried beans, cheese, onion and tomato

Chicken Enchiladas made with homemade tortillas

Coconut Delights Bakery - Pearl Lagoon, Nicaragua

This small family owned bakery has been in business for 15 years. Byron and his wife Elicia have been serving up smiles along with delicious bread, buns, patties and various treats for the past 13 years.

We have quickly become addicted to their excellent fresh bread and buns and we can't resist returning regularly for their sweets.

There is a small sitting area if you choose to eat your snack in house along with a cup of coffee (sadly, like most parts of Nicaragua, it is instant) or you can take it home to enjoy with your loved ones - human and feathered! Pancho gets really excited when we come home with a bag of fresh picos!

The Coconut Delights Bakery is found on Front Street - just steps away from the Municipal Wharf. Stop by to see them Monday to Saturday between 7:30 am to 8:00 pm. In true Caribbean style they have a "sometimes" schedule on Sunday afternoons (or evening as they say it here)....

Fruit Cake - Coconut Delights Bakery

Patties - Coconut Delights Bakery

Marshmallow Cake - Coconut Delights Bakery

Spice Loaves - Coconut Delights Bakery

cookies - Coconut Delights Bakery

Coconut Delights Bakery - Pearl Lagoon, Nicaragua

Byron and Elicia

Whichever treat you decide on - sit back, relax and enjoy!

Toto's from Coconut Delights Bakery

Pancho gives Coconut Delights 1 beak up!

Pancho enjoying a treat from Coconut Delights